To Niue or Not to Niue

After crossing the start line in Bora Bora we had a slow first day.  Winds were light, but eventually they built up and we had some good winds but really uncomfortable swell on the beam making for rolly conditions. 

Pleasant conditions for the start line for Leg 5

We didn’t do much those first few rolly days and I was mostly useless. The side to side motion made things uncomfortable and I was a queasy. Our new crew mates were troopers and while they too were getting their sea legs they were at least able to help with all the sailing and were doing their share of standing night watches.  With four of us on board everyone was getting some better sleep--despite the constant motion. 

Squall preparation was continual on this passage - it gave us something to do to pass the time.

By day 3, the seas had calmed a bit and we had a short reprieve.  The weather forecasts were ever changing and the different models were not in alignment.   I hired a professional weather router by this point to help us pick a path between several low pressure systems that were headed our way.  Several other boats were using these services and they seemed helpful to at least validate what we were seeing in the forecasts.

Cooling off in the middle of the South Pacific on a day of calm motoring

We were watching the weather ever so closely and comparing notes and conditions from the boats around us.  For the first low to pass, we chose a strategy of sailing higher latitude — as if headed to Samoa.   About this time we also got word that our visit to Niue may not be possible because of a second low pressure system that would bring westerly winds and waves to the westerly side of the island.  Niue has no natural port so yachts stay on mooring balls anchored in deep water off the shore--subject to all weather.  They were likely going to shut down the mooring field in these adverse conditions.  

Navigating at night, we watch squalls approach and prep the boat by reducing sail to minimize wear and tear on the gear.

After the first weather system passed and we learned we would be prohibited from staying at Niue, we were advised that we had to quickly get south again (sailing very close to our original destination of Niue) to avoid more foul weather from a newly developing low.   Our weather advisor said ‘if you stay at the latitude you are at -- you can expect 30-50 knot gusts and you should just 'heave to' and wait it out OR you can go 100 nm south and have a pleasant sail’ so we chose to do the later.   We still had some 30 knots of wind but we were prepared when the wind finally came.

Keeping ourselves busy on a day where the table was still enough to play Qwirkle

Through out the entire leg the morale was boosted by the camaraderie of the other boats.  We were traveling in a fairly close pack and almost always had at least one boat from the rally visible on our instruments.  Most nights we could see another boat's lights on the horizon.  When squalls would pass the fleet, one boat would message the wind speed, direction and share with the group via whatsapp, then when the wind squall came to the next boat they would relay an update and so on down the line.  The tip offs in advance helped everyone reduce sail before the brunt of the gusts came through.  On one of the days with fairly extreme conditions of 4m seas and 25-30 knots of wind and 35 knot gusts we FINALLY caught a great tuna.  We were going fast.   I don’t think we would have attempted this if it had only been the two of us!   Dan loved it.  I was glad when the bigger winds/waves were over but did love the tuna!

Our tracking for this leg looks a bit like a sine wave.  Up, down and up again on the final approach to Tonga.  And since we had to just sail past Niue with out stopping our 7 day leg became a 9 day leg.  Technically a 10 day leg because we cross the international date line!  

Award winning Tuna rolls and nigiri

The final few days had light wind from the west so we did some motoring, motor sailing and some sailing but we were all eager to get to port and explore Tonga.  Dan and I were especially excited as we had been to Tonga 26 years ago and it would be interesting to see how it had changed.   Overall it was a great passage. Our crew was amazing, our food was great and the biggest 'failure' we had was keeping our mattress on the bed when the boat rolled hard from one side to the other.

When we think about how much more experience and information we have now -- compared to then -- it is remarkable.    This time we approached the harbor at about 11 pm on a mostly moonless night--something we'd not have contemplated 26 years before. With aids to navigation such as radar/satellite/sonar data at the helm we can pilot with relative ease in the dark.  We’ve considered that 26 years ago in Tonga we had probably set our anchor only 50 or 100 times in our life.   As of today, we’ve probably set our anchor at least over 1,000 times.   Practice does make a difference in confidence I think!  Now the challenge is to not be complacent and to keep the skills sharp!  We were reminded of this great quote. 

“There are old sailors and there are bold sailors. But there are no old and bold sailors.”

I’m not sure who said it so sorry to not give credit but it seems appropriate today.  Onward!

Tied off to the customs wharf in Tonga with the crew of AEgle and Take Two.