The Happy Isles of Tonga

Tonga. It is not by mistake that these are called the Happy Isles. We had loved it 26 years ago, and we still love it today. One of our first days in Neiafu, we visited the local municipal market. We were a little late in the day for the market, but a few of the stalls were still open. Betty, manager of one of t the stalls was impressed with my rudimentary ability to speak Tongan and was eager to teach me more. We chatted a bit about our trip to Neiafu 26 years ago and she was excited to talk. She was sure that she remembered me when I visited the first time. I don't think that is possible, but she was a very good sales lady and I ultimately bought one of her baskets and might go back for more. Betty gave me a little tour of the market and told me who had the best 'ava (kava), the best fruit and the best vegetables. Every time I go to the market we say 'malo e lei lei' (hello).

Dan in Swallow's Cave

After a day or two in the main village of Neiafu we quickly headed out to some of the beautiful anchorages, all within about 10 miles. Each anchorage is unique and offers its special beautiful scenery, dramatic sunsets and cultural experiences. One night we happened to stay just off the the village of Makamata. As we began walking down the main 'trail' to the town, a young woman graciously offered to give us a tour. We walked with Jane, the local elementary school teacher for about an hour. She took us to the end of the road, and then back to her school house. She teaches 11 children in grades 1 - 6. She gave us a gift of 2 breadfruit and showed us how to prepare them. Later that evening we dropped off a bag full of school supplies for her to use, that we had brought with us for this exact situation.

Ready for shore side adventures at Matamaka

Jane picking breadfruit for us at Matamaka

We filled our days with swimming, visiting the locally famous caves and wandering down coral and shelled filled beaches. Swallows cave, large and graffiti filled was the source of our entertainment on one day. While looking at the bats in the cave Arne dropped his mask off the back of his head. With some creativity and diving down to 60 feet with scuba gear, Sandra was able to retrieve it. Two days later, Dan organized a group of people to go to Mariners cave. Mariners cave is accessible from about 1-2 meters below the surface. As Dan was the only one that had done the cave before, he reassured everyone that it was indeed 'doable!' I circled outside the cliff on Okisollo for about an hour while everyone got a chance to explore. The cave creates a cool fog effect when the pressure changes with the ocean surge.

Outside looking into Mariner's cave

Dan posing in Mariner's Cave

Sandra swimming out of Mariner's cave

We later met "Dave" at anchorage number 16. He and his family have lived there on the land for 3 generations. We sat under the large banyan tree (after Dan climbed it of course) and shared a meal with all the other sailors that had come into the bay that day. It was a lovely evening and ended with Dave and his wife singing us several songs that he had composed.

Evening on the beach under the giant banyan tree, thanks to our host Dave and his family. We ended up having about 20 people for dinner that night.

Again, we are continually impressed with the generosity of the Tongan community. At the end of the week, we headed back to the main town of Neiafu. Arne had to get on a plane, ultimately back to Germany and we needed to replenish our fresh veggies, fill our propane tanks and do our laundry. Tomorrow we head out again to the outer islands to join some friends for a Tongan feast on the beach. Until next week. Onward!