Powering on...Dillon's Bay

After being amazed and pleasantly surprised by our experience at Port Resolution on Tanna, Vanuatu, we were excited to see what the next island had in store for us. We pulled up the anchor early in the morning and set off for the roughly eight-hour sail to Dillon’s Bay on Erromango. Calm seas and light winds made for an easy passage. We also spent those eight hours dragging a fishing lure behind the boat—with absolutely nothing to show for it. Apparently, the fish had received word that we were coming.

Grazing cows along the river at Dillion's Bay

Upon arrival, we were greeted by David, the owner of the local yacht club. He invited us, along with the other ARC boats, to join him for a tour of the village, the school, a local freshwater swimming hole, and lunch the following day.

Dillon's Bay Yacht Club, a nice gathering place for the group

Of course, we accepted.

Vanuatu is truly a treasure. The village was incredibly welcoming and fascinating. Dirt paths wound through beautifully maintained huts and gardens, all nestled into the lush jungle-covered hillsides. It was a wonderful glimpse into traditional Pacific Island life.

David’s wife prepared an amazing traditional lunch of yams, pork, local ceviche, fish and meat curry, and cassava with coconut. We ate well—and probably more than we should have. At the school, the students challenged us to a game of football (soccer). Their enthusiasm was impressive. Our enthusiasm was also impressive, although our athletic ability was somewhat less so.

The swimming hole on the local river

Later that afternoon, the village chief arranged for us to visit some local caves where human bones were displayed. Some were believed to belong to missionaries and others to members of rival tribes. Cannibalism was once part of the culture here, although thankfully it is no longer practiced. Standing there looking at the bones, I had one thought: if things suddenly went badly, I should probably figure out which person in our group I could outrun.

Fortunately, it never came to that.

The cave of bones

Then came my unexpected assignment.

Jeanne had responded to a notice from the village saying they needed some battery cable to connect a new battery bank they had received. Jeanne and I agreed to donate the cable and whatever else we had that might help. What we didn’t realize was that they didn’t just need the cable. They needed the batteries installed. I agreed to take on the job, and with some additional parts and pieces provided by SV Indigo Wave, I was able to rewire the new batteries and integrate them into their solar charging system and distribution panel. The job took a couple of hours, during which I had an audience of at least 20 very interested and very vested village men watching my every move.

Joe telling us how the lights don't work

No pressure.

What I didn’t know was that there was a World Cup game coming up—and they needed the power to watch it. After finishing the installation, I flipped the main switch.

The lights came on.

Then the TV came on.

The community center before the lights came on

And suddenly, I was no longer the most interesting thing in the room.

The entire group immediately turned their attention to the small television at the front of the meeting hall. I gathered up my tools and quietly exited the building. Apparently, my work here was done.

Dan and the boys playing soccer at the local secondary school

From Dillon’s Bay, we made the overnight passage to Port Vila, the capital of Vanuatu. We stern-tied at the yacht club, and it quickly became apparent that the capital was a stark contrast to the outer villages. Here there were paved streets, stores, restaurants, traffic, and plenty of activity. It felt like a completely different Vanuatu.

Negotiating the plank

I can’t say enough about how much I enjoyed this country. The people are warm, friendly, and welcoming. The beaches are beautiful, the villages are fascinating, and the culture is unlike anything we had experienced before. If you’re looking for a real adventure vacation—one that gets you away from the typical tourist experience—Vanuatu should definitely be on your list.

Seafood platter at the restaurant just feet behind where we were tied up in Port Villa

For us, though, the adventure wasn’t over. Jeanne was going to head back to the U.S. for a quick visit with family. I began preparing for the passage to Australia and the final leg of our journey across the Pacific Ocean.

Onward….