Around the world in 30 days

1 hour ago

5 min read

Dan and Jeanne introduced the idea of an ocean passage on Okisollo to me a few years back, while Tangi and I were visiting with them in Loreto, Baja California Sur Mexico. When the actual opportunity came up in 2026, I had mixed emotions honestly and started exploring excuses for why I wouldn't be a good fit for the Okisollo team. For instance, I had a full ankle replacement in February and needed to commit to the trip while still in my recovery phase. I contacted my surgeon for his thoughts on this crazy idea, half hoping he would say no and I could blame my decision on science. "Are you kidding me?" he said. "Yes, you have to do that. Enjoy yourself!" Rats. Well surely my family would need me around in October and ask me to stay home here in California. After all, who would talk to the cat and play fetch with her? "Dad. you need to do this. It's your dream and who knows when this opportunity may come again," they said. Molly the cat was indifferent. Foiled again. Ok well there's this godzilla El Nino forming in the eastern Pacific and surely that will create dangerous and unpredictable sailing conditions. The Indian Ocean passage will probably get cancelled anyway. Facts: El Nino wasn't really forecast to strike until November at the earliest and how it would impact the Indian Ocean was unclear and didn't seem to concern anyone. Ok then, looks like I'm going. I contacted Dan and Jeanne to get the ball rolling.

I realized I was pretty nervous about the whole adventure - especially the idea of traveling half-way around the planet by air before even meeting up with Dan in the Cocos Keeling Islands. Where the hell is Cocos Keeling, one might ask (I know I did, and everyone I mentioned this adventure to did as well). Turns out, Cocos Keeling is an atoll that includes several islands located about 4 hours by air northwest of Perth, Western Australia. It is considered a remote territory of Australia, though it's geographically closer to Indonesia. I was scheduled to meet Dan there on October 2nd and set sail across the Indian Ocean for Mauritius three days later on October 5th. Fourteen hours from San Francisco to Sydney, then 6 hours Sydney to Perth, then take one of two weekly four-hour flights to Cocos. Miss the flight and you literally miss the boat. No worries mate! The longest flight I'd ever been on thus far happened this very summer, flying SF to Maine. That's only 5 hours and change. No worries mate!

Well, long story short, I made it to Perth and spent a couple lovely days exploring Western Australia and then flew to Cocos Keeling. Exiting the plane and hit with a blast of humid tropical air, I immediately saw Dan's smiling face across the runway! Somehow my impossible flight itinerary had grooved with Dan's timing using the Okisollo dingy and a local shuttle bus to meet up on time in this remote land. Here we go I thought and felt absolutely elated, or as we say in Santa Cruz, I was stoked!

I was promptly introduced to Andrea, our Italian crewmate who would be making the passage with us on Okisollo. I felt so relieved to have arrived and to be done with planes for a while and ready to begin the sailing part of this epic journey. Crossing an ocean on a sailboat is something I've dreamed about doing since I was a little kid. It might be every boy's dream at some point. Visions of pirates and whales and all kinds of mayhem and sea creatures and shanties filled my imagination. Stepping aboard Okisollo in the sapphire waters of Cocos' West Island, I felt eleven years old again and couldn't stop smiling. Andrea even mentioned that I fell asleep that first night with a huge grin on my face. Way ho, here we go! Okisollo, Okisollo!

After a few days prepping the boat and exploring the water near our anchorage (including a bucket list freedive with giant manta rays), we began our passage of the Indian Ocean.

Dan has already described in great detail the "sporty" conditions at sea and inside the cabin of our sailing vessel. What he hasn't described is the meticulous preparation he puts into everything he does. Dan is a master technician, an electrical engineering guru, an accomplished boat captain, a damn good cook (with exceptional sushi rolling skills and a taste for heat and spice), and an all around fun guy to hang with. His love of the ocean and of sailing is effervescent and contagious. He runs a tight ship and creates a homey environment where learning is easy and instructions are clear. Andrea is similarly gifted, though less than half our age. He grew up in the Dolomite region of Italy, sailing avidly since he was a young boy. Andrea and his best friend Tommy are traveling as deck hands with the ARC for 15 months and everyone seems to adore them. Their booming laughter, witty Italian humor, and zest for life and good food are inspiring, The kid can also cook a mean risotto, among other things.

Our passage went by like a dream. Fifteen sunsets and fifteen sunrises in a row, shared with these two wonderful men. There were moments so beautiful during my morning watch, sipping hot coffee and listening to music as the sun rose yet again, that left me in absolute tears of joy. The movement of Okisollo beneath us, flying west always like a mighty water dragon, was soothing and reassuring. The comfort of delicious warm food and unlimited gourmet coffee; the delirium and buzz of limited sleep; and the bluest ocean I'd ever seen, racing by below us and through us. It was like a dream of a place I always knew I'd find, but wasn't sure where to look. I fondly remember looking over the port side shortly after sunrise on Day 3 at sea and seeing a flip flop sandal floating towards us. Then I noticed a crab riding atop the sandal as it passed. We were in the middle of the ocean in 15,000 feet of water and me and that crab had a lot in common. Fair winds mate, get home safe.

Sitting here now in port in Mauritius near the continent of Africa, taking in the colorful city of Port Louis with its friendly people, aromatic street markets, and exotic plants and animals, the dream continues. I feel so fortunate for this opportunity to be an ocean sailor, if only for a short time. My legs still feel a little wobbly on land and honestly, I hope that feeling fades slowly. When I get home to California just before Halloween, I will have travelled around the entire planet in about 30 days. 2400 nautical miles of that journey will be something I will never forget.