We forgot how to do 'RAIN'

For the last 7 days we have made our way down the pacific coast of Costa Rica.  During the rainy season this area is prone to frequent squalls.  To solve for this, our strategy has been to get up at 5 am, depart for the next destination by 5:30 am so that we can be all re-anchored and ‘tucked in’ before the afternoon squalls show up usually around 2 or 3 pm.  We’ve found the weather forecasting to be highly inconsistent, so we’ve been surprised a few times.  As such, we’ve spent a lot of time researching what makes a cloud turn into a lightning cloud – and what to do – if anything if you are underneath one.  The weather has been uncomfortably hot and humid as to be expected.   90+ degrees, with 70% or higher humidity.  We’ve never sweated so much in our life.  We’ve heard that Panama is less humid, so that is going to be fantastic.

Observations the from the day before we left Marina Papagayo....each lightning bolt indicates a lightning strike! Thankfully this system passed by!

Our second night out from Marina Papagayo we stayed in a cozy little bay.  There was a bit of roll from the southerly swell coming into the anchorage, but it was manageable.  We had turned on a movie and finished our dinner.  One minute it was a beautiful sunset – and the next – a torrential downpour.   Dan scrambled to the front hatches and I jumped to the back ones. While we got the hatches closed as quick as possible. We found that we weren’t quick enough—the counters, floors and a pillows were already soaked.  Following the rain, we were treated (or terrified?) to a fabulous light show of lightning that was far too close for comfort.  This lasted for an hour or two and we were thankful to manage some sleep. 

Satellite imagery with an unexpected thunderstorm overhead in Bahia Samara. We were positioned at the white circle. This too will pass!

From then on we realized that using satellite imagery would prove to be a more reliable way to pick our path down the coast.  With real time observations that indicate where clouds were moving and how big they were, we could pick our path & timing to avoid the menacing clouds.  One day at a time.  This has worked well and we’ve been able to go about 300 miles, in 50-60 increments a day.  We did not step off the boat in any of the bays we visited.  With all the afternoon showers, the rolly conditions, surf at the beach, water cloudy with the runoff, it's just been more appealing to watch a movie and rest up for the next day's run.  It has definitely been a different 'normal' in our usual cruising oriented activities (running up the river in our dingy, walking down the beach or exploring villages). 

A momentary break in the clouds at Bahia Ballena Costa Rica and the small town of Tambor

We’ve had many conversations about how "this feels like Alaska’ because of the green hills, overcast skies, silver grey color of the water – except and importantly, that it feels refreshingly good to stand in the cool rain.   We are certainly glad that we were able to experience Costa Rica in the dry season but we have enjoyed this season as well.

Sunset in the rolly anchorage at Bahia Herradura. The rain clouds do make for beautiful sunsets!

Yesterday as we left Drake Bay (where it is rumored that there is hidden treasure from Captain Drake) we rounded the Oso peninsula and followed the coastline of the Parque Nacional Corcovado which contains 2.5% of the world's biodiversity. Along this route we had flat seas enabling us to see several humpback mothers & babies, sharks, rays, dolphins, several species of turtles, the usual sea birds and a few unusual ones. We saw one large white bird (might have been an egret?) that we couldn't identify. We think it had likely floated out to sea on a large log in a squall and wasn't sure how to get back to its mangrove home.

Surf breaking off the Matapalo Cape and the lush green cliffs of Corcovado National Park

We passed many beautiful and famous surf beaches, including Matapalo and Pavones. Sadly, we also passed many many many plastic bottles floating on the surface another reminder to reduce our use. With this coastline in our rearview mirror, we have now passed the wet-est and lightning-est locations in Costa Rica.

1 of hundreds of plastic bottles we passed going on the west coast of Costa Rica

Today we are anchored in the town of Golfito (pop. ~11,000), which is the furthest south 'official' port in Costa Rica.  We plan to stay here a few days.  The anchorage is soooo calm. We slept well. We'll be scouting out the small town and then begin our check out procedures as we will be enroute to Panama over the weekend. Onward.