Land Ho: Hiva Oa Marquesas

Land Ho! Hiva Oa Marquesas

The moment you sight land after being at sea for almost 3 weeks is a happy day.  It is at that point you realize that humans are supposed to be land-based animals and while being at sea is ‘fun’ ‘exciting’ ‘challenging’…there is nothing that sounds better than the idea of having your feet on Terra Firma. 

The final days of this leg, we sailed 100% downwind.  We hadn’t really planned for a direct downwind sail, although we likely should have.  For Okisollo, this is not an optimal point of sail, and while we had been traveling quite fast, dead downwind required us gybing multiple times and required multiple sail changes—and it was slow.  Throw in some squall dodging to the mix, when we reached the finish line for this leg we were weary.  Our friends on SY Sea Monster, crossed the finish line within 1 minute of us.  That is pretty crazy considering we travelled 3106 nautical miles and didn’t see each other until the last day!  We were pleased with our timing and we were the 6th boat in out of 25 and I think we will place even better after handicap adjustments (no, its not a 'race'!)

View of the finish line from the Hotel

Entering the bay at Atuana, Hiva Oa Marquesas is a spectacular experience.  The steep jagged cliffs emerge from the sea, draped in green.  The beaches are framed by palm trees.  The air smells sweet and fresh.  The contrast to seeing blue for 19 days makes it that much more rewarding. Upon arrival we were whisked away to meet our local ‘agent’ that would be available to help us with supplies, fuel and moorage during our 6 weeks stay here in French Polynesia.  After completing the initial formalities, we joined our friends for dinner at the local hotel, where a Marquesan dance troupe took center stage.  It was fun to watch, although I admit it was a bit of a challenge for me to keep my eyes open! It didn’t start until 7 pm, which was when on the boat, I would be getting my sleep in preparation for midnight watch.

Marquesan dance troupe

WorldARC crews getting their photo taken with the a few members from the dance troupe - I think we overwhelmed them!

The next day we, worked on a few boat maintenance items and at mid-day headed back into town to complete the formalities.  Meeting at the local police department we got our passports stamped and we were officially legit.  It was a very easy process thanks to the help from the Rally Committee and the Agent.  The anchorage area in Atuona is very small, we had tried to anchor inside the breakwater, but it was just too crowded.  So we had spent 2 nights outside the breakwater in rolly sea conditions.  After the supply ship left (it comes once a week or so?), we were able to reposition ourselves tucked back up behind the breakwater--much better! 

Posing with a big Tiki

To finish off our short visit to this island, we rented a 4x4 Suzuki to visit several historic sites featuring Tiki’s and ceremonial grounds dating back to the 1400s.  It was a beautiful drive.

Dan with a very happy Tiki

Ceremonial grounds, which would have at one time supported wooden buildings atop the rock foundations. Used for funerals and embalming ceremonies.

Dramatic scenes around every corner on Hiva Oa

Today we find ourselves 9 nm from Atuona, anchored off the island of Tahuata.  We are slowly working through a long list of repairs and preventative maintenance items.  Yesterday, Dan completed a huge chore of scrubbing the scum off the hull (above the waterline). We were amazed at how dirty it was just from the continual splashing of the waves along the side of the boat. It was exhausting work.  I defrosted the freezer.  Today, we will continue working through our to do list.  Soon, we will head to Nuka Hiva where we will pick up our crew that will go with us to Bora Bora. There we will celebrate our accomplishment with the other rally boats in completing the longest leg of the WorldARC.  Until next week....Onward.   

Anchorage in Tahuata, Baie Hanamoenoa