We can't believe only a week has passed since our last update. We've travelled just over 300 nautical miles (average speed 6 knots) and stopped in 4 different anchorages and set the anchor a few more times than that. We've seen the the days get longer, the surf direction change and the weather shift. We've seen whales every day, hundreds of dolphins and thousands of fish. We've packed in each day with good eating, lots of swimming and snorkeling.
After a long day passage from Papanoa (leaving at 2 AM) we entered the magnificent harbor of Acapulco by late afternoon. As you may know, Acapulco was hit directly by Hurricane Otis in October of 2023 (Category 5 with winds of 160 MPH) then less than a year later by Hurricane John (Category 3).
The marinas were all but mostly wiped out and there were signs of many sunken yachts throughout the shallower end of the west bay. We'd arranged to rent a mooring so that we did not have to risk getting our anchor caught in flotsom or debris on the sea floor. At night the throng of party boats circled us with their loud dance club music which subsided around 2 in the morning.
We didn't go ashore in Acapulco as it was not really set up for visiting boats since the hurricanes. It is also a very BIG city and the sounds of traffic were not beckoning us to explore more. There was also not a great place to leave our dingy so we just looked at the beautiful skyline and left the next morning.
From Acapulco, we had a two day offshore sail to Puerto Angel a small fishing village in a tiny bay surrounded by rocky cliffs. The swell in this bay was quite strong with lots of surge created from the steep shores.
Fishing pangas took up the bulk of the room and there was hardly a place for us to set the hook--except right in front of the harbor entrance. With strong swell coming in off the ocean, and the constant traffic from boats in and out of the bay we were eager to leave in the morning. To make it more 'fun' we also anchored over an apparent 'sunken car' and we were greatly relieved in the morning when the anchor come up with no issue.
We left early and backtracked 3 miles to the village of El Mazunte which offers an open roadstead type anchorage (meaning limited protection from swell and wind).
El Mazunte beach proved to be a bit rolly too, but at least we had room to maneuver and the bonus of being able to paddle to shore for lunch. We don't have many photos because we just couldn't think straight after having not slept a full night through for a few days.
We've know that this coast is more known for its surfing, strong undertows and awesome laid back beach vibes. As you may imagine, surfing beaches are not really great for sailboats. We would have very much enjoyed spending more time ashore, but we were nervous to leave our boat unattended on the edge of the ocean. So after two nights rolling around and fussing with multiple anchorage techniques to limited success; we headed further down the coast and around the 'corner'. It is strange now that we are traveling almost due East and that the sun passes over the boat from bow to stern.
Entering the Huatulco Bay National Park, we were greeted by huge flocks of birds, a mama whale and her baby and more dolphins. Again, the anchorage is rolly (but less so) as they face the southern swell directly with limited 'hiding spots' -- but that has its benefits.
The snorkeling is superb. The fish life is very diverse and we were pleased to see the coral protected and roped off to boat traffic. The water is a pleasant 84 degrees.
We've spent the last 2 days snorkeling a few times each day, walking on the long beach, setting up beach afternoon picnics with our neighbors and looking for turtle tracks. It is amazing to be back to a place that by 4 pm afternoon is just ours to explore. It is isolated and breathtakingly beautiful.
Until next time, onward.
Thank you for taking us with you. Now I can say I have been to Acapulco. Stay safe sailing.
Water looks amazing!